Farm-to-Glass: In Fennville, Local Means Wine

You’re coming here for the pristine beaches. And the local restaurants that source much of their food from farms within a few hundred miles. Same with the local shops that stock their shelves with products made from artisans who live there—whether that’s a cool hat or hoodie at Woosah/Outside Coffee Company or drinks and cheese at Pennyroyal Cafe & Provisions. You’re also coming here for the wine. And if you’re not, you should be.

Believe it or not, the Fennville wine-producing region has been around for 50 years. It was the third officially recognized wine-producing region in the United States. It may be small, currently with just five wineries, but it’s mighty. Fenn Valley arrived 50 years ago. Wyncroft followed and so did Crane’s. Newer wineries include Modales and Michigan Wine Company. And the area has the potential to become a true star in American winemaking. Why? Because, like all those other local attributes people love this area for, wine is very much part of that fabric.

“We have super high-quality restaurants in the Saugatuck-Douglas-Fennville area, so people who seek out good food are going to try to seek out good wine,” said Rob Hagger, general manager of his family-owned Crane’s Pie Pantry, Restaurant and Winery, whose wine and hard cider are sold at Salt of the Earth and Pennyroyal. “And if you have those local places that support the industry and continuously put it on the wine lists, more people are going to taste it, more people will be exposed to it and realize it is really good, high-quality wine.”

And it’s not just the restaurants where you can drink local wine, but right at each of the five wineries in the Fennville AVA. You can book advance reservations at Modales and Michigan Wine Co., and they’re required at Wyncroft. Both Fenn Valley and Crane’s accept walk-ins, but reservations are welcomed there, too. You don’t get more local than having the opportunity to taste wine right at the source. Sometimes, you’ll get to try something special that’s reserved just for the tasting room experience — and if you’re lucky, the winemaker might even be the one pouring you a taste.

When you drink wine in the place where it’s made, you can taste the difference. This comes from the terroir — where the vines grow and get influenced by the soil, nearby Lake Michigan and Kalamazoo River, temperature, and more. The Fennville AVA produces a number of varietals found in wine-growing regions around the world. A Cabernet Franc or Chardonnay grown in Michigan will have similar yet different characteristics as one from the Loire Valley or Napa, and that makes them special here.

“These are cool climate wines,” said Jamele Favorite, marketing lead of Modales. “We’re not trying to be that region where you may have loved that big, bold red. That’s not us. Don’t box us into those regions. We’re not just wine that is ‘good for Michigan.’ We’re good for the wine industry as a whole.”

There’s a well-known phrase among people who work with food and wine: What grows together goes together. At local restaurants like Salt of the Earth, Pennyroyal Café & Provisions, or The Southerner, you’ll find dishes made with local ingredients — greens, tomatoes, root vegetables, beef, poultry, and more. You’ll also see ciders from Crane’s and wine from neighboring wineries including Wyncroft, Marland (Wyncroft’s second line for everyday drinking), Modales, Fenn Valley, and also Crane’s. These local businesses help support and promote each other. It’s part of the local ecosystem. That’s what helps create a sustainable community.

“There’s no other place in the U.S. that has the diversity of agriculture we have in Southwest Michigan,” said Brian Lesperance, vice president of Fenn Valley Vineyards. “Everything grows here, basically. So, I do think with the trend of farm-to-table, this is a real opportunity for a tourism industry to grow around that.”

No matter where people travel these days, one thing is certain: They want to take part in all things local. In fact, nearly 80% of Millennial and Gen Z travelers desire to take part in local activities and also say trying local cuisines is something they look forward to most when they travel, according to American Express Travel’s 2023 Global Travel Trends Report.

“Young people now are much more open-minded,” said James Lester, owner and winemaker at Wyncroft. “They are willing to explore things and are interested in buying product that hasn’t been shipped halfway around the world. “The best way to do that is to buy local.”

And yes, that includes all the wine, so get ready to visit and eat—and drink—all things local.